Simple 50’s Glam Tutorial
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When I was a teenager I idolized Bettie Page. Not for what she did, but because of how she looked. I have always loved all things vintage and back then I wanted curly black hair and blue eyes. Now I still love Bettie Page, but as an icon that was ahead of her time. I chose to use her Infamous Santa Hat photo as inspiration for a Simple 50’s Glam Tutorial. Even though the Santa Hat makes it appear Holiday, this look can be worn year round. The focuses are flawless skin, lashy eyes, a strong sculpted brow, glowing cheeks, and of course, the star, the red lips. This is a pretty easy tutorial, but quite striking in person.
So let’s get to it!
Cropped/Censored Inspiration Photo: Bettie Page Playboy January 1955
I have very dry skin so before I put on makeup or anytime I wash my face I have a very specific skin care routine I perform to ward off that dryness. In a future post, I will go through my skin care routine and link it here. It took me FOREVER to find products that actually worked for me so just maybe it could help someone else.
When I created this look, I did not use the Kat Von D Lock-It Hydrating Primer, but I highly recommend it. The KVD Foundation and Primer are made for each other. The two skin issues that the KVD Foundation doesn’t deal with, large pores and fine lines, the Primer does. I’m telling you, they are a match made in Heaven.
Also, when I was doing this tutorial/look I realized that the Lock-It Foundation in Shade Light 45 Warm was too light for me. Now to slightly darken it to match my complexion, I mix a dot of Medium 53 Warm in to give me the perfect color.
Before I started my makeup, I threw in a pair of green contacts. Bettie Page had blue eyes, mine are brown and not owning blue contacts, I figured green was closer than brown. I am also wearing a wig, but I put that on after so I will cover that later.
Back to the look….
First apply a primer in a thin layer over your entire face.
After the primer absorbs and dries I always begin by covering my ever-present under eye circles. At the moment, It Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Anti-Aging Concealer in Medium is my favorite. The smallest dot of concealer will cover the circles under both eyes. Using your ring finger gently tap the product on ONLY where the dark discoloration is present. I have to make sure to get the sides of my nose at the inner corners of my eyes. Those two spots are where the darkness is the worst for me. Keep gently tapping until the edges of the concealer have blended out into your skin and the color looks uniform over where your dark circles were.
To get the flawless skin we want for this look, I used the Kat Von D Lock-It Foundation. It provides full coverage that still looks like your skin. I never use full coverage bases and I LOVE this one. It feels light on the skin and covers pigmentation, breakouts, pretty much anything without looking heavy. This foundation also leaves a matte finish which is what we want for a 50’s look.
I applied 1 Pump of the Lock-It Foundation in Shade Light 45 Warm using a damp Beauty Blender. Generally, I first dampen the sponge with water then use a hydrating product to mist the sponge to keep it damp. Currently, I am using Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Toner. Besides, that I use the Beauty Blender per usual. I bounce and roll the sponge around my face until the foundation is completely blended into my skin taking care to make sure that I blend slightly down my neck.
Why Foundation First?
It is very rare that I do not apply my foundation first even when I am doing a messy eyeshadow look. I do wait to apply my concealer until I have nearly finished my eyes, but always my foundation first. I like to give it time to settle into my skin and in my mind become one with it. Sometimes I will add slightly more coverage, sometimes I will find I need to blend parts of my face out more. As mentioned before, my skin is quite dry so letting it sit allows for me to use the least amount of setting powder. I often use none at all except to set my concealer. It is just what I find works best for me.
Eye Primer & Brows
After foundation, I apply my eye primer. I think I have found my Holy Grail in Blinc Eye Shadow Primer, but I won’t discuss it here, I could write a whole post about it. I use my fingers to smooth the primer from lash line to brow and inner eye to slightly past my outer lid, making sure that the edges blend in with my foundation.
As the eye primer sets, I do my brows. The 50’s trends called for a strong, shapely arched brow, much different from the natural brows of today. I open my pot of Anastasia Dipbrow Pomade in Ebony and add a drop of Inglot Duraline. The Duraline thins the Dipbrow to a consistency I prefer working with, more fluid like a liquid eyeliner. Dipping a small angle brush into the Dipbrow mixture, I draw in a raised arch that curves up and out much further than my own eyebrow. I keep the application consistent in color throughout my brow. Repeating on my other brow, I try to keep them as similar as possible. Then I add a few light strokes on the inner part of each brow to simulate hair and grab my The BrowGal Eyebrow Gel. I quickly run the clear gel through each eyebrow to add texture and hold.
Now it’s clean up time. I take a small concealer brush and use NYX HD Concealer in Beige to carefully carve out the bottom of my brows and correct any mistakes. The concealer also aids in highlighting your brow bone.
My extremely WELL LOVED Kat Von D Shade+Light Eye Palette
Shade 1= Laetus, Shade 2= Lazarus (one of my favorites!), Shade 3= Samael, Shade 4= Latinus, Shade 5= Liberatus
I take a Sigma E40 fluffy blending brush and use Shade 1 from the Kat Von D Shade+Light Eye Palette to set the eye primer. I lightly dust from lash line to brow, adding another layer in the crease area to make blending easier. Take Shade 2, the same brush, and using your crease as guide blend from inner eye out past the edge of the outer eye. The blending of this shade is not precise, you want it to go above and below the crease. Same brush again, mix Shades 2 & 3 together and stay closer to the crease, but still blend out past the outer eye, just not as far. With a light hand use the same brush and pick up Shade 3, concentrate it just in the outer v of the eye, from outer crease to outer eye down to lash line.
The last two shades are to clean up the blending (if needed), highlight the brow bone, and to even out the tone on the lid. Take a flat shader brush using Shade 4 and place it on the inner 2/3 of your lid. Leave the outer 1/3 dark, but blend the two colors together slightly for a smoother transition. Use Shade 5 to highlight the inner eye and brow bone. On the inner eye blend the shadow out so that there are no distinct lines. Then on the brow bone first place the shade then blend down into the darker shadows. Take the Sigma E40 one more time and lightly blend where the the light and dark meet. Done with eyeshadow.
Liner & Lashes
Liner time. Take a black pencil liner of your choice, I used It Cosmetics No Tug Waterproof Gel Eyeliner, and tight line your top lash line. Then take a black liquid or gel liner of your choice, I used LASplash Art-ki-tekt Slim Waterproof Eyeliner (my VERY favorite!!!), and draw a winged liner on each eye. I chose to make a thicker, shorter wing (really barely a wing) because of my eye shape. Feel free to draw your wings thinner and longer, whatever suits you.
Now for the false lashes. I used my favorite of the moment (they’re SO close to being unusable) Lena Lashes in Monroe. They are dramatic, but not too much so and I love the way the lashes go from shorter on the inner eye to longer on the outer. It helps to elongate my round eyes and give them more of an almond or cat-eye shape. I always use House of Lashes Lash Adhesive because it is Formaldehyde and Latex free and also waterproof. It also dries quite quickly.
My lashes were already cut and molded to my eye from being worn before, but go through your usual steps to prepare your lashes. Apply the lash glue along the band. You only need to use a very small amount. I always put a little extra on each edge and in the center. This lash glue dries much quicker than most. After a count of 10 the glue will be tacky enough to apply the lashes. I make sure the inner corner is placed where I want and then to help correct my downturned eyes I slightly raise the outer corner above my lash line. Repeat with the other lash.
Bringing It Together
After the lashes are on and glue dried, I use my Kevyn Aucoin Eyelash Curler. I gently make sure all of my lashes and false lash are in the curler and lightly squeeze. It helps blend my lashes with the falsies and for some reason, curling my lashes first just does not work for me. I do it for both sets of lashes. Then take mascara, I used PÜR Fully Charged Magnetic Mascara, and concentrate at the lash root of the top lashes. I only pull it a third to halfway through the lash, just enough to further blend the lashes together.
Once my complexion has set, I check to see how it looks and where I need more coverage. Usually, I will only use concealer at this point. I open my NYX HD Concealer in Beige and make elongated right triangles under my eyes, place concealer beside both nostrils, and make a U around my mouth (to correct darkness that appears in photos). I also conceal any blemishes and anything else out of the ordinary. Using my Beauty Blender I start on the lower part of my face and move upwards. Around my eyes I am very careful not to disturb any work I have done. I also do not want to disturb the layer of under eye concealer. On my outer eye I use the concealer to clean up the edges of liner and eyeshadow.
Having dry skin I only lightly powder my t-zone. Then using a large powder puff and RCMA No Color Powder I powder my under eye area. I use very little powder, just enough to set it so that my concealer will not crease.
I take out the mascara again and quickly put it on each eye’s lower lashes. Additionally, I hit my very inner top lashes again.
For the cheeks, you want to use a rosy blush. I chose Seraphine Botanicals Happy Hibiscus Blush. My hand was heavier than usual and I used it to slightly contour with a lighter hand. I’m pretty sure highlighter wasn’t a big deal in the 50’s, but I couldn’t resist. I went for a pure silvery white called Chaos from Devinah Cosmetics**. As usual, I hit all my high points with the highlighter, across my cheekbones, down the bridge of nose, lightly on my forehead and chin (not big on adding extra attention to those areas on me), and of course the cupids bow.
**If interested, our code DOLLS20, gets you 20% off at Devinah Cosmetics.
For the lips I used Nars Cosmetics Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Cruella and an Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Brush. I have thin lips, so yes I overdrew them a little on the top and bottom.
Lastly, I put on a wig because my hair is short right now. A curly one would have been more accurate, but Paris from Lush Wigs worked fine and is a cute, long bob.
It had been the end of the Holiday Season when I did this look so I also threw on a Santa Hat. Leave the hat out and this look can be worn anytime of the year by anyone. It is universally flatteromg..
Hope you enjoyed the tutorial. I promise to keep things shorter in the future. Next up, I have a review/impressions on the December Medusa’s Makeup Subscription and a look at the Holiday Benevolent Box (which is amazing!). If anyone chooses to recreate this look, please tag us on social media. I would love to see it!